A Glimpse into Vintage Menswear

On this Sunday afternoon, as I root through the contents of my basement finding piles of vintage, I discovered this outdoorsman jacket. Adding it to the pile I intended to wash, I felt crunchiness along the lining of the coat. I figured it was probably dry-rot from years of outdoor activities. However, when I opened what turned out to be a lining pocket, I discovered the interior was filled with small clumps of pheasant feathers, twigs, string, leaves, and debris!  

After I dumped all of it into the garbage, it occurred to me that these were probably remnants of what he used to make fly fishing lures... and it hit me: This is why people don't deal in menswear. This is why we don't SEE menswear. Because, on a very basic level, men are just dirtier.  Now, before you attack me for gender stereotyping, I should point out a few things to consider. 

This jacket came with a matching ladies' vest and jacket, which belong to this man's wife. 

The women's pieces, which I've already long sold (because they were cleaner!) showed the same amount of wash-wear and use that demonstrated that these pieces were used together. This couple was adventurous. A husband and wife who threw lavish parties, dressed to the 9's, and lived life to the absolute fullest. It's obvious she was involved in hunting and fishing with him, but she apparently took better care of her items and washed them frequently. And because of that, her pieces survived and sold a lot easier than his, without the amount of work I'm going to put into this jacket.

I thought it was cool that these remnants of his sport told a story about the jacket. He saved these clusters to use during his fishing, perhaps, making flies or possibly other things. But they also represent something that is typical of vintage menswear: They are used hard and worn out. This is evident time and time again with every piece of men's vintage I acquire. Motor oil and paint stains on good Sunday suits and dress shirts. Worn out elbows and tattered sleeves because he didn't like shopping and re-wore the same garments until they fell off. 

In no way am I attacking men for this, but it does demonstrate (to some extent) why menswear is so much less prevalent. Why buy a new suit when you can wear the same one to a wedding, dinner, AND a funeral? A woman will buy a dress and be lucky to wear it twice if she's frugal, but chances are she's going to wear multiple dresses more gently and less often than a man wears his clothing. Thus we see a helluva lot more women's vintage than men's, and that is exactly why I don't mind putting a little extra effort into pieces like this! 

Halloween is in the air...

Whether you know it or not, Halloween is in the air. The changing weather is upon us. With leaves falling from the trees, there's a crisp in the air that's just begging for a new fall jacket. With Halloween around the corner, it's time to do some serious costume shopping. There's absolutely nothing like the stress of waiting until last minute. Now's the perfect time to get your act together and start plotting your winning look for this year's 2015 Halloween Costume Contest. 

What will YOU be this year? Here's a few ideas, and we'd love you to share some of your own!  

 

 

I'm feelin' grOoOOoOvy...

Recently, I acquired a house full of vintage goodies that had particularly playful taste. This woman loved jewelry, kitsch, animal print, and lots of purple... 

The 10 Best Reasons to Wear Vintage

You love vintage. I love vintage.

Just in case you forgot why vintage is so great, I've highlighted what I believe are the 10 best reasons to wear vintage. For those that are new to vintage I hope this offers insight into why vintage is so revered. 

1. Vintage is unique

Finding amazing clothing that fits well is a challenge in of itself without the additional threat of seeing yourself coming and going. There is nothing quite like finding the perfect dress to wear to a wedding or a party only to discover someone else is wearing the same one. When you wear vintage, you're almost guaranteed that no one else will be wearing it at the same party, much less in the same town! Most of the pieces are old enough to now be considered one of a kind, or they now exist in such small quantities that you can be confident that you're the only one wearing it.

2. Vintage is quality 

Clothing that is manufactured today is low quality and mass produced. The process through which the items are created is fast and cheap, rendering us with garments that fit poorly and fall apart. Many companies use cutting machines that stamp out their clothing patterns in large stacks of fabric. This cuts the fabric in quantity, but creates pieces that are smaller, more accurately cut at the top, and pieces that are larger and more jaggedly cut at the bottom. The result is pieces that don't necessarily fit well together, which are sewn poorly, and thus, fit poorly. Much of the vintage you find in shops was hand made, hand sewn, or manufactured by dress makers that had high standards for their pieces. Dresses and jackets are fully lined, darted, and tailored. These garments have details that aren't present on today's modern clothing. Details such as elaborate buttons, pin-tucking, box pleats, ruffles, snaps and hooks that hold fabric in place, and many more small details that give the clothing an over-all quality appearance. The same principles can be applied to vintage costume jewelry and accessories. Shining rhinestones and unique glass beads on old costume jewelry rival the precious gems of modern pieces. The craftsmanship on older shoes is also unmatched. The quality of leather used is thicker, stronger, and much more durable than what is used today. 

3. Most vintage was made in the USA 

Many of the vintage labels you find proudly sport, "made in the USA" on them. This applies to clothing as well as other vintage, such as household items, jewelry, and accessories. Feel good about purchasing items that were once produced in the industrial, economic powerhouse that the United States once was. It is far more comforting to purchase items that were produced in factories by our grandparents, whose labor efforts are still being appreciated, than to buy something made by the millions labeled, "Made in China". 

4. Shopping for vintage is more fun 

Shopping in general is fun, but there is something much more appealing about shopping for vintage. The overall experience of shopping for vintage is exciting for several reasons. The biggest and most obvious appeal is the thrill of the hunt. Going through various stores filled with antique and vintage goodies is thrilling because you never know what you're going to find. This increases your odds of finding something special because there is no telling what numerous stores will have. Compare this to the routine mall experience where all the stores have the same trends, same colors and patterns, and same seasonal clothing. There are four pairs of pants to choose from and if none of them appeal to you, you're out of options because the next 5 stores have the exact same styles. What if you're vacationing and need a bathing suit, or funky ski pants? Most vintage stores carry such a variety of items that their inventory usually isn't seasonally based, which allows you a wider range of options. Furthermore, vintage shops constantly get new inventory. Like regular retail stores, the merchandise in shops will constantly change as items are sold and new things are brought in. It is much more exciting to shop the unexpected. 

5. Designer quality with budget prices 

Vintage affords wearers stylish, well made frocks, without the hefty price tags. As mentioned earlier, vintage quality is unmatched by today's standards. However, even the everyday run-of-the-mill clothing of yesteryear is akin to the quality of today's designer pieces. The fabrics used back then aren't even produced now, or if they are, the essence of the fabric has been cheapened.  For example, next time you're looking at a vintage piece, take a look at the seam allowances and hems on dresses and pants. Feel the fabric that was used. Good quality rayon, gabardine, silks, taffeta, sturdy cottons, and much thicker polyester than what is used today. The seam allowances are larger, which provides more durability, and the hems are wider (sometimes 3" to 5" inches!) giving the hem a solid appearance that offers flexibility of length. More fabric used in wider hems and larger seam allowances, more stitching and detailing all adds up to more cost and time contributed by the manufacturer. Hence, you won't find these qualities in today's garments unless you're spending more money on designer pieces. 

6. Vintage offers a wider range of colors and patterns

Colors and patterns are determined by seasons and by trends. Modern clothing that is offered in various stores will all look the same because the colors match current styles. Therefore, if you're looking for a particular print or color, you may not find it in stores because it is either out of season or out of style. This makes it especially hard when you're trying to match a shawl to a bridesmaid dress or looking for a new evening bag to match an older dress you're planning to wear. Vintage stores are anything but drab! Because colors go in and out of style, you'll find an array of pastels and hard to find jewel tones that just aren't produced anymore. Bermuda blue, forest green, baby pink, royal purple, rose, rust, avocado green, and aqua are among some of the colors that aren't typical for the modern color palette. 

7. Vintage is a good investment

There are seldom times in life when one can purchase clothing that will yield a return after being worn, much less hold any value whatsoever. This could be said for any vintage pieces, such as jewelry, accessories, and garments. There are many designer vintage pieces that may, in fact, increase in value as they age. Buying these items is more satisfying because you know you are  making a good investment, even if you are splurging a bit. 

8. Buying vintage is green 

Look good and save the planet while doing it! By buying vintage clothing, you're not only wearing great fashions, but saving items that would ordinarily be occupying space in our landfills. You're buying less disposable, mass-produced clothing and therefore reducing your carbon foot print. There are also many shops that specialize in "up-cycled" vintage. "Up-cycled" vintage items are previously useless items that have been turned into new, usable goods. Shops carry things such as bowls made out of old scratched records, jewelry made out of the keys from old typewriters, skirts made out of old neckties, and many other unique items.

9. Vintage offers hard to find items 

Shopping vintage allows you the opportunity to find items that are seemingly no longer produced, or produced in very small quantities. Hard to find items such as aprons, stylish fedoras, cuff links, skinny neckties, women's hats and gloves, petticoats, full length slips, pill boxes, cigarette cases and funky/unique ashtrays are amongst the many items you won't find at the mall. Some of these items can be special ordered, or are available in high priced department stores. Why buy a $60 dollar pair of cheap quality cuff links at Nordstrom when you can purchase a vintage pair of stylish cuff links with a unique design for a fraction of the cost and triple the swagger?

10. Vintage is trendy 

It's no surprise that designers are running out of new ideas to set the next big trend. With that said, many of today's styles are modeled after vintage patterns. A look at clothing in stores today showcases an array of styles from bygone decades such as bell sleeves from the 1960s, flared pants from the 1970s, drop waists from the 1920s, and bias-cut gowns from the 1930s, just to name a few. Even the fabrics and silhouettes are reminiscent of retro styles. Coach recently revisited their 1970s design with the bags in their Legacy Collection. Vera Bradley bags have retro '60s inspired prints of psychedelic colors and paisley patterns. Even Forever 21 has a new vintage influenced collection. According to Fabsugar, '' Boutique by Forever 21 is all about that antique touch -- elaborate embellishments, soft feathers, and dazzling sequins. Plus, with higher quality fabrics, it all looks authentically secondhand." It's remarkable that they boast "higher quality fabrics'' are what make the designs look "secondhand",  when secondhand is normally a term synonymous with used, or worn. This just further emphasizes the idea that second hand clothing is trendy. 

"Oh, they were SO Small back then!"

Oh, please. Don't get up.

"Oh, they were sooo small back then!"

No they weren't.

People may have been structurally smaller years ago, but I can assure you that the waistbands were just as vast then as they are now.

Let's consider sizes offered in the catalogs of past decades. Men's and women's shoes in the 1930s were carried in much smaller sizes than they are today. Women's were available only up to an 8, and men's in a size 11. Plus, anyone that shops vintage clothing knows that the older shoes, gloves, and hats tend to be smaller. Really stinks for tall people like me that have a size 10 shoe...

I would argue, though, that some people have and will always be, plump. Whether you blame genetics or a lack of restraint at dinner, there will always be people of a larger size, and with that comes larger clothing from specialty stores or skilled seamstresses. So then, why is there such a glut of smaller size clothing and such an obvious lack of plus sized vintage clothing?

To answer this question, I would suggest an attempt at understanding why the clothing exists in the first place. Vintage clothing is only obtainable because there are people that hung onto things over the years, and luckily (for us), never threw anything out! But why hang onto a dress....or 30? Sometimes it seems that clothing has more memories attached to them than home videos and photographs.

Here's a peek at my philosophy.

1. "I'll fit into it!"

C'mon, admit it. We all do it.

Each and every person out there has that dress/sweater/jacket/skirt you bought on clearance because you know that "one day I'll fit into it." Then a few years go by.. and those few years turn into 40 and sooner or later a vintage clothing dealer is pilfering your closet as you lament over how you meant to wear that to your sister Anne's cousin's brother's niece's wedding in 1965... which brings me to my next point....

2. *sings* Memmmmmmmoriiiiiiiiiiiiiieeeessssss....

Most people would admit that they have hung onto at least one or two pieces of clothing from a special time in their life, or event. As a dealer, I can safely say that the most common pieces are prom dresses, wedding dresses, and mink coats and stoles. Every woman that has ever called my shop trying to sell a mink coat has acted as though she has a treasure beyond anything ever seen by a mortal eye. Unfortunately, furs are about as common as Singer sewing machines, and since they're plentiful they're worth just about as much...

3. An Ode to Youth

So yeah... this could possibly fall under the 'memories' reason, but for different rationale. These clothes weren't saved because they were tied to a special event, but more because they are an ode to your youth, and the former, thinner, and for lack of a better word, hotter version of one's self. You're never able to part with that dress because it's tangible proof that you were, indeed, a size 2.

These reasons may have highlighted some points as to why there is a plethora of small clothing, but it fails to account for the lack of larger pieces. As a full-figured woman that has come from a lineage of proportionately 'curvier' ladies I have insight that few petite women can share. Bluntly put, we buy less clothing and use it more thoroughly. Shopping for plus sizes is more limited and poses more of a challenge. Therefore, most larger people avoid this task and wear something they already have instead of buying a new garment for every event. The clothing is worn more, seams are ripped, buttons pop from the stress of buxom bosoms and eventually the garment is trashed, rather than saved. Who wants to remember any of THAT anyway? On a funny side note, I always joke that nearly every plus size dress I have gotten has had at least one food stain on the bust. I'll let you connect the dots on that little tidbit. :)

Okay grandma, where's your old clothing?

And for those beautiful plus size ladies with luscious curves, don't despair. There IS plus size vintage out there, and you WILL find it. Persevere and hunt. I once went to a Salvation Army store looking for Halloween costumes with a few friends and found an arbitrary array of 1950s dresses (all in my size!) hiding amongst the floral and sequins disasters of the mid-1990s. This can and will happen to you! If not, you can always visit my Etsy shop, stocked with beautiful plus size dresses at Buxom Babes Vintage.

I think I Have an Illness.....

It all started when I was a kid.

When I was in grade school my Wednesday nights were spent begging my parents to let me skip my CCD class at our church to instead go with them to the evening auction. Every Wednesday night there was an auction that started around 5 or 6 pm. Of course, right at that particular time I had to go to my Catholicism classes. At 8:30, my mom would pick me up in time to go back to the auction house to meet my dad. On occasion, I wouldn't have class for the night, or in the months when classes weren't in session, I spent my evenings at the auction house, reading price guides about Barbie dolls and doing my homework on the folding chairs. Usually, we would finish a very late night filled with balding, corrective lens wearing, hard-nosed dealers, fixating their attention on various piles of unforeseen treasure hidden in cardboard trays.

After the last box lot was auctioned off, we would stop for a midnight treat at the Portillo's (it's a Chicago thing) adjacent to the auction house and fill up on greasy food before taking our treasures back home to marvel over. I remember digging through the boxes, finding things that were not previously seen, and smiling ear to ear about a particular piece that held my attention from the first time I laid eyes on it until the victorious moment when my dad outbid another dealer by a buck.

As the years progressed my parents purchased items and I keyed on a few specifics of my own. When we purchased at auctions, estate sales and flea markets, I took it upon myself to specialize in books and sheet music. I would research and price these items and stock our booths at local antique malls with my small additions. For most 10 year-olds I think it is safe to say that it was a lot easier to make a few bucks doing that than cutting lawns or getting a paper route!

During my mid teens my mom proposed that I expand my horizons and asked if I wanted to deal in vintage clothing. I agreed and thus.... a monster was born! Having already spent 16 years of my life immersed in a house that was furnished and always filling with antiquities the act of expanding my personal collections and entrepreneurial acquisitions towards vintage clothing fit like peanut butter in a Reese's cup. It just made sense.

Antiquing, collecting, hunting for items; it's an illness. It is a bug you catch at some point in your life and henceforth you will never quite "recover." For me, becoming a dealer seemed to be something inherent in me that has always come as naturally to me as breathing or any other involuntary action of which the human body is capable. I think that most dealers would agree that the urge to collect can only be described as an illness because it is habitual and compelling and it never seems to go into remissions; not that any of us would ever want that :)

With that said, I admit I have a problem, however, I embrace it. Hello, my name is Lindsay and I am a dealer and collector. I hope others embrace our "illness" as well so that we may comfortably share stories and knowledge together to better grasp and understand our lifestyles. Even with boxes of vintage goodies tucked under my bed, in my closet, basement, garage, and attic, I am okay, and you are, too. And last, for those of you who do not live like this, I hope I have offered an intimate glimpse into the heart and soul of a vintage clothing dealer.

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